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Thread: What do you think?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    The Bay State
    Posts
    1,255

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    Nice Mark...............

    Good luck with the build, please post pics as you go.


    bill

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark the Magnificent!
    Chladni patterns fascinate me. I've seen several Youtube videos that show the process in action, and it makes sense to me in trying to get the most out of a top and bracing. Youngs Modulus escapes me, other than being a measurement of stiffness. I'm thinking dread on the BRW. I haven't accumulated any materials for it, other than the b&s set on its' way here. I've already got the Burkett in BRW/red spruce, so am leaning a bit towards Englemann, just because I really liked how it sounded with the Taylor 510 I once had. It seemed to give a little more roundness and fullness to the mahogony, instead of being SOOO bright I've got the Pin Oak I got from otterhound. I'm thinking small body for that, maybe with redwood or cedar. I really haven't thought much on that one. The one that is furthest in the planning stages is a set of figured white oak. I have an idea about making an all US wood guitar. I have the b&s set, and a black cherry fingerboard and bridge. The only down side to it is that everything is so light colored, and I don't know how I feel about staining it. I ruined a nice set of Peruvian Walnut on my last build, cracking the back and ruining the sides with the bend. That's why I'm looking at benders. I don't understand how they line the side up in the form, though. It seems to me that the butt and neck ends of the sides would have to precisely match the form to keep it properly shaped, yet, all the Youtube stuff I've seen demo'ing benders shows them starting by bending the waist and pressing the bass and treble ends around afterward.

    I'm thinking I need to get or build a bender. Then, I can practice on the remaining side of the Peruvian Walnut, move on to the white oak, and then, after I hopefully have a success or two to bolster my confidence, do the BRW.
    Blues Creek Guitars tutorial on You Tube . Stop wasting your time .

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by otterhound
    Blues Creek Guitars tutorial on You Tube . Stop wasting your time .
    I've seen the vids on Youtube. I actually just went back and watched them again. Partway through the first installment, someone asks how you locate the wood for the waist. John says something about 12" for the body shape he's bending, but then says he leaves extra on both ends and cuts to fit afterward. I suspect it becomes second nature, once you have done it a few times. But, I still don't understand how you can get the bends at exactly the same places on either side w/o some guideline to mark the waist. To me, it seems that, otherwise, you'd have a risk of the taper on the sides not being symmetrical. Perhaps, the amount of play is immaterial when you actually do it, but I'm still not sure how you precisely would place the side. I have thought of getting the template and measuring from one end to the center of the waist, then marking the sides that way? It sounds real easy till you understand that I've screwed up almost everything I touched in the building process from beginning to end, and would like to avoid the mistakes I made with the last one. I'll probably create a whole bunch of new mistakes

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bend, Oregon
    Posts
    489

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    Yo. The waist mid-point doesn't have to be perfect perfect. You just need to make sure you have a little overlap on each side. I them put the sides in my form and mark where they need to be cut and do so on table saw....

    But, if indeed you want to locate the waist or any other point on the sides, you can just take the aluminum flashing (or a string etc), bend it around bender and mark the waist or whatever on the flashing....then straighten it out, measure distance, and boom! You are there.....as long as I understand you correctly. Cool.

    Sam

  5. #15

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    You are overthinking this .
    After being bent as shown , they are placed in the molds and trimmed to size .
    There is some manual fitting that must be done .
    A tight fit is the goal . Not tight enough that it cracks the wood , but tight/snug .
    Apply spreaders and proceed to the next step .

  6. Default

    In all of my years in lurking on EBay and making bids on wood (and other items) I have identified interesting looking things and made what I thought were reasonable bids on them. In the past, I always get beaten out by someone who either wanted it worse, or better knew the actual value of the stuff. However, last week was a BIG exception!!! I put in modest bids (actually lowball) and forgot about it. Then, in one afternoon I got THREE emails from EBay saying I'd won listing # whatever. I actually had to go look and see what it was I'd bought! I'm a little short on cash, now, due to the unexpected purchase, but all the stuff is here, as of today a few minutes ago. It's all nice, but the Padauk is lovely. I guess at some point there will be more builds, or else there is such a thing as wood acquisition syndrome!

    By the way, since the third one isn't actually identified in the pic, let me do it here. It's spalted mango. I don't see much on it in use with guitars, but it appears to be common in ukes. I looked it up in the tonewood reference, and it says Mango gets pretty big, but it normally becomes hollow, making guitar sized sets rare. So, as I slowly acquire the other stuff necessary to (maybe) eventually turning this stuff in guitars, does anyone have any recommendations as to which sets should be what style, and what top woods might be best paired with what sets? On further reflection, I think this IS a sickness!




    Last edited by Mark the Magnificent!; 11-13-2015 at 05:36 PM.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    2,680

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    Mark, I don't know a thing about tone-woods, but I appreciate your interest and hope you find the best uses for all of it. I certainly do appreciate the looks of various woods and have refinished my share of furniture over the years. That last one is particularly intriguing to me!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Smithfield Va
    Posts
    976

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    Great score Mark! Several in fact. What are YOUR thoughts on body styles for this wood given that there are so many possibilities?
    What search terms do you use on eBay to find the B/S sets that you do?
    Thanks

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ragtime
    Great score Mark! Several in fact. What are YOUR thoughts on body styles for this wood given that there are so many possibilities?
    What search terms do you use on eBay to find the B/S sets that you do?
    Thanks
    Hey, Jim!

    search terms I don't really use. What I do is cruise this area

    Musical Instruments & Gear>Guitars & Basses>Guitar Builder>Luthier Supply

    Thanks on the congrats on the wood. Given my disastrous experience with building, so far, I don't know why this stuff fascinates me so much, still! I want to try another dread, since I already have forms from my last effort, but mostly because I was so discouraged with all the stuff I screwed up on it, and would like to try again, with the benefit of many of the hard lessons learned. I also have a hankering for an L-00 type guitar. I've cruised EBay and Reverb for a long time looking for an old Kalamazoo KG-11 w/no pickguard to do a conversion on, but they have climbed in value to the point where the Waterloo is probably a better option. I've had a hard time convincing myself not to get one of those. The other thing I'd like to do is a J-45 slope shoulder type thing. I really don't know which woods to use for what, though!

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mengr80
    That last one is particularly intriguing to me!
    It was for me, too! I figure if it works for ukes, it ought to work for guitars, right?

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